Nationwide, it’s easy to source online via retailers like Broadbent, Wild Fork, and Heritage Foods. Seek out ham hock that’s dark in color and “aggressively smoked,” Gillespie suggests.

Place the ham hock in a pot and cover with cold water. Add the onions and celery and bring to the boil. Simmer until fork tender. Alternatively put in a pot, cover with a lid and bake in a 160oc ...