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At the same time, Western vodka brands that have Russian sounding names, such as global bestseller Smirnoff, were quick to point out that they aren't actually from Russia.

Russian vodka accounts for only about 7% of the market, and a lot of what you might think of as Russian really isn't. Smirnoff, for instance, is an American brand.

And Shefler, as head of SPI, paid Soyuzplodoimport, the company of which he was president, some $300,000 for 43 Russian vodka brands, including the Stolichnaya and Moskovskaya trademarks.